Hanfu, the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese people, has been experiencing a remarkable revival in recent years. Whether you have seen stunning photos on social media or attended a cultural event, you may be curious about how to wear hanfu yourself. This comprehensive beginner's guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from choosing your first set to dressing with confidence.
What Is Hanfu and Why Is It Making a Comeback?
Hanfu literally translates to "clothing of the Han people." It encompasses the historical dress styles worn by the Han Chinese ethnic group across thousands of years, spanning dynasties from the Shang (1600 BCE) to the Ming (1368-1644 CE). Unlike a single garment, hanfu refers to an entire family of clothing systems, each reflecting the aesthetics, materials, and social norms of its era.
The modern hanfu revival movement began around 2003, when enthusiasts started wearing traditional garments in public to reconnect with Chinese cultural heritage. Today, the movement has grown into a global phenomenon, with millions of followers, dedicated hanfu festivals, and a thriving market for both traditional reproductions and modern adaptations.
Wearing hanfu is not limited to people of Chinese heritage. It is a celebration of art, history, and craftsmanship that anyone can appreciate and participate in respectfully.
Choosing Your First Hanfu Style
One of the most common challenges for beginners is choosing which style of hanfu to start with. Here are the most accessible and popular options.
Ruqun: The Versatile Classic
The ruqun is one of the most popular hanfu styles for beginners, and for good reason. It consists of a top garment (ru) and a skirt (qun), making it relatively easy to put on and adjust. The cross-collar ruqun is especially forgiving for different body types and does not require precise measurements the way some other styles do.
A typical ruqun outfit includes:
- A cross-collar top that wraps right over left
- A high-waisted skirt that ties at the chest or waist
- An optional outer layer or sash
Ming Dynasty Styles: Structured and Elegant
Ming dynasty hanfu is another excellent choice for beginners because the garments tend to have more structured construction, including buttons and ties that make dressing easier. The aoqun (jacket and skirt combination) is particularly popular among newcomers.
The mamian qun (horse-face skirt) from the Ming dynasty has become incredibly trendy due to its flattering pleated design and versatility. It can even be paired with modern tops for a fusion look.
Song Dynasty Casual: Comfortable and Understated
If you prefer a more relaxed, understated look, Song dynasty inspired hanfu might be your style. Song dynasty clothing emphasized simplicity and elegance, with clean lines and muted colors. The beizi, a long open-front coat, is a comfortable piece that layers beautifully.
Wei-Jin Style: Flowing and Artistic
For those who love dramatic, flowing silhouettes, the Wei-Jin period styles offer wide sleeves and ethereal layering. These are stunning for photography and events, though they can be more challenging to wear for everyday activities due to the voluminous fabric.
Step-by-Step: How to Wear Hanfu
Step 1: Start with the Inner Garment
Most hanfu outfits begin with a zhongyi, a simple white or light-colored inner garment similar to an underrobe. This protects your outer garments from body oils and sweat, and it provides a clean base layer.
Put the zhongyi on like a robe, wrapping the right side over your body first, then the left side over the top. This right-over-left wrapping (known as "you ren") is a fundamental rule of hanfu. The right lapel should always be underneath, closest to your body.
Important: Always wrap right over left. Left over right was historically reserved for burial clothing, so wearing it reversed is considered highly inauspicious and disrespectful.
Step 2: Put on the Main Garment
For a ruqun style, put on the top garment next. Pull it on and wrap the right side across your body, then bring the left side over the top. Secure it with the attached ties, usually located at the right side of the waist and the left side of the waist.
For a one-piece style like a shenyi, the process is similar but you are wrapping a longer garment that connects the top and bottom.
Step 3: Add the Skirt
Wrap the skirt around your waist, positioning the waistband where you want it. Most hanfu skirts sit at the natural waist or slightly above. Tie the skirt strings securely, wrapping them around your waist and tying in a bow or knot at the front or side. Make sure the skirt is smooth and even all around.
For a mamian qun, align the two flat panels at the front and back, then wrap and tie the waistband strings.
Step 4: Add Outer Layers and Accessories
Depending on the formality of your outfit, you might add:
- A bijia (sleeveless vest) for warmth and visual layering
- A pibo (decorative shawl) draped over the shoulders
- A yaodai (waist belt or sash) to cinch the silhouette
- A pei (jade pendant) or other hanging ornaments at the waist
Step 5: Hair and Headwear
Traditional hanfu looks are often completed with appropriate hairstyles. You do not need to master elaborate historical updos right away. A simple half-up style with a decorative hairpin (zanzi or buyao) works beautifully. Flower crowns, hair ribbons, and combs are also popular accessories.
Essential Hanfu Accessories
Accessories can transform a basic hanfu outfit into something truly special. Here are the key categories to consider.
Hair Accessories
- Buyao (step-shake hairpin): A hairpin with dangling ornaments that sway as you move
- Zanzi (hairpin): Simple and elegant pins in various materials
- Fascia/hair ribbons: Silk ribbons woven through or tied around the hair
- Flower accessories: Fresh or silk flowers tucked into updos
Jewelry and Ornaments
- Pei (waist pendant): Jade, silk, or metal ornaments hanging from the waist sash
- Yingluo (necklace): Beaded collar-style necklaces popular in Tang dynasty styles
- Earrings: Jade drops, gold filigree, or pearl styles depending on the dynasty
Footwear
- Gongxie (bow shoes): Upturned-toe shoes in silk or brocade
- Embroidered cloth shoes: Flat or slightly heeled shoes with decorative stitching
- Modern alternatives: Minimalist flats or low block heels in coordinating colors
Fans and Parasols
A round silk fan (tuanshan) or folding fan (zheshan) is both a practical and decorative accessory. Embroidered parasols provide sun protection and complement the aesthetic beautifully.
Where to Buy Hanfu
Online Marketplaces
- Taobao/Tmall: The largest selection of hanfu from Chinese sellers, with prices ranging from budget-friendly to premium
- Etsy: Good for international buyers, with many sellers offering custom sizing
- Amazon: Limited but growing selection, convenient for quick shipping in Western countries
- Dedicated hanfu shops: Brands like Ming Hua Tang, Hanfu Story, and Twelve Loom offer high-quality garments
What to Look for When Buying
- Correct wrapping direction: Ensure the garment is designed to wrap right over left
- Fabric quality: Look for natural fibers like silk, cotton, or ramie for comfort and authenticity
- Historical accuracy: If this matters to you, research the specific dynasty and style before purchasing
- Size charts: Asian sizing can differ significantly from Western sizing; always check measurements rather than relying on S/M/L labels
Budget Considerations
You can start your hanfu journey at various price points:
- Budget (under $50): Simple polyester or chiffon sets, good for trying out the style
- Mid-range ($50-150): Better fabrics, more detailed embroidery, improved construction
- Premium ($150-500+): High-quality silk, authentic historical details, custom sizing available
Hanfu Etiquette: Do's and Don'ts
Do:
- Always wrap right over left
- Treat the clothing with respect, as it carries cultural significance
- Learn about the historical context of the style you are wearing
- Feel free to mix hanfu elements with modern clothing for daily wear
- Engage respectfully with Chinese cultural communities about hanfu
Don't:
- Wrap left over right (this is for burial clothing)
- Claim the clothing as your own cultural invention
- Wear hanfu as a costume or joke
- Mix elements from vastly different dynasties in a single outfit if aiming for historical accuracy
- Worry about perfection on your first try. The hanfu community is generally welcoming to newcomers
Try Before You Buy: Virtual Hanfu Try-On
Not sure which style suits you best? Modern technology offers an exciting option. AI-powered virtual try-on tools allow you to upload a photo and see yourself wearing different hanfu styles before making a purchase. This can be incredibly helpful for beginners who want to experiment with different silhouettes, colors, and dynasty styles without the commitment of buying multiple outfits.
You can try on hanfu virtually to see how different styles look on you, from elegant Tang dynasty looks to refined Ming dynasty ensembles.
Wearing Hanfu for Different Occasions
Casual Daily Wear
Many hanfu enthusiasts incorporate elements into their everyday wardrobe. A mamian skirt paired with a modern blouse, a hanfu-inspired jacket over a contemporary outfit, or simple accessories like hairpins and jade pendants can add a touch of traditional elegance to any day.
Cultural Events and Festivals
Hanfu is especially popular during traditional Chinese festivals like the Mid-Autumn Festival, Lunar New Year, and the Qixi Festival. Many cities around the world now host hanfu gatherings and meetups.
Photography
Hanfu photography has become an art form in itself. Whether in a garden, temple, forest, or urban setting, hanfu creates stunning visual compositions. Consider the setting, lighting, and props when planning a hanfu photo session.
Weddings and Formal Events
Traditional Chinese wedding attire is a beautiful choice for ceremonies. Red hanfu with gold embroidery is classic for brides, while grooms typically wear dark-colored robes with coordinating details.
Building Your Hanfu Wardrobe Over Time
You do not need to buy everything at once. Here is a suggested progression for building a hanfu collection:
- First purchase: A simple ruqun set in a versatile color (white, light blue, or soft pink)
- Second purchase: A mamian qun skirt that can mix with both hanfu tops and modern pieces
- Third purchase: A more formal outfit for events, perhaps a Tang-style or Ming-style set
- Ongoing additions: Accessories (hairpins, fans, belts), seasonal pieces, and specialty garments for specific occasions
Conclusion
Wearing hanfu is a journey that combines fashion, history, and cultural appreciation. Start simple, learn as you go, and do not be afraid to ask questions in hanfu communities. The most important things are to respect the cultural significance of the clothing, wrap right over left, and enjoy the experience of connecting with thousands of years of sartorial artistry.
Whether you are drawn to the flowing elegance of Wei-Jin robes or the structured beauty of Ming dynasty jackets, there is a hanfu style that will resonate with you. Take the first step, and you may discover a lifelong passion for traditional Chinese dress.
